Tuesday, October 5, 2010

Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2011 Pt 4: The Dark Ones - Gareth Pugh, Ann Demeulemeester, Haider Ackermann & Rick Owens

Gareth Pugh

Flowing kimono shapes were cut from a nylon printed with aluminum to give an extraordinary two-way mirror effect. Scales of rubberized neoprene added a snaky futurism to tops and pants. Pugh pulled off a feat of cutting in tunics he called "modular," the same front and back. And, keen as he was to avoid the sci-fi tag that has been continually attached to his clothes, he still showed sinuous silvery pieces that clung to the body like thirty-first-century armor.

Ann Demeulemeester

Stark and dark buckled breastplates, quilted obis, and funnel collars, all with a sculptural quality. The feel of this SS'11 collection was definitely tighter and more contemporary, more sci-fi, less neo-medieval.

Rick Owens

For SS'11, Rick Owens favored a rigid, almost austere structure using silk cotton canvas to cut shapes that stiffly framed the body, with collars that extended upward. Skirts were extreme, either in volume or length, some with fishtails trailing. My favourite pieces were the softer ones, and the beautifully folded leather dress:

Haider Ackermann

Colombian-born, Belgian-trained designer turned silk pajamas into languid eveningwear, married tuxedo lapels to a narrow skirt...and used vivid electric blue, red, emerald, yellow, or royal purple, as well as the requisite black:



  1. Rick Owens and Haider Ackerman just blew it out of the water. I do like some of the Pugh pieces. Unfortunately, I am a bit disappointed in the Ann D. line. For me, the print totally distracts from the lines that are usually her strength.

  2. Really nice blog!

    x, Mikaela