Sunday, October 17, 2010

Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2011 Pt 9: The Intellectuals - Alexander McQueen, Balenciaga, Hussein Chalayan & Givenchy

Alexander McQueen

The woman in Sarah Burton's show for Alexander McQueen began as a plain white canvas and was steadily reclaimed by nature: wrapped in embroidered fronds, in leaves of black leather, in a raffia-trimmed brocade, in the wings of monarch butterflies or an enveloping mass of feathers. A medieval and sometimes baroque 'Mother Nature'. The craftsmanship was startling—that monarch butterfly dress, for instance, or a gown with a breastplate of gilded cornstalks and skirt of pheasant feathers, or another gown of pleated organza that looked like an unfolding sea anemone.


From houndstooth outerwear with a graphic punch (the pattern made from plastic-y faux leather) to sleeveless, backless button-down shirts spliced together from mismatched neon lace to the streamlined, comparatively simple tuxedos to quilted leather moto jackets to the closing pair of spare yet technically complex dresses:

Hussein Chalayan

With striking color-blocking in combinations like pink, olive green, and black; and the designer's now-signature blend of intellectual rigor and appeal to the senses, Chalayan's SS'11 collection was both beautiful and clever. Cotton voile dresses burst out from under tailored waistcoats, or pieces in a poplin so white it was practically clinical and that shimmered with inserts of translucent mesh; there were also brilliantly tailored pieces and an interlude of floaty floral dresses:



  1. McQueen was excellent! I knew she would do an excellent job! I have a feeling she was probably doing a lot of the work anyway. I will have to take a closer look at Chayalan, I don't care for the floral dresses, what's going on in the background is more interesting also the beginning looks are very appealing to me. Givenchy: sometimes I fall totally head over heels for it other times I'm just ehh about it. Kinda eehh about this, but the leopard dress is interesting.

  2. McQueen was great, love the vision and the hair is great. Great show (: