Sunday, October 17, 2010

Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2011 Pt 9: The Intellectuals - Alexander McQueen, Balenciaga, Hussein Chalayan & Givenchy


Alexander McQueen

The woman in Sarah Burton's show for Alexander McQueen began as a plain white canvas and was steadily reclaimed by nature: wrapped in embroidered fronds, in leaves of black leather, in a raffia-trimmed brocade, in the wings of monarch butterflies or an enveloping mass of feathers. A medieval and sometimes baroque 'Mother Nature'. The craftsmanship was startling—that monarch butterfly dress, for instance, or a gown with a breastplate of gilded cornstalks and skirt of pheasant feathers, or another gown of pleated organza that looked like an unfolding sea anemone.











Balenciaga

From houndstooth outerwear with a graphic punch (the pattern made from plastic-y faux leather) to sleeveless, backless button-down shirts spliced together from mismatched neon lace to the streamlined, comparatively simple tuxedos to quilted leather moto jackets to the closing pair of spare yet technically complex dresses:














Hussein Chalayan

With striking color-blocking in combinations like pink, olive green, and black; and the designer's now-signature blend of intellectual rigor and appeal to the senses, Chalayan's SS'11 collection was both beautiful and clever. Cotton voile dresses burst out from under tailored waistcoats, or pieces in a poplin so white it was practically clinical and that shimmered with inserts of translucent mesh; there were also brilliantly tailored pieces and an interlude of floaty floral dresses:
















Givenchy








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2 comments:

  1. McQueen was excellent! I knew she would do an excellent job! I have a feeling she was probably doing a lot of the work anyway. I will have to take a closer look at Chayalan, I don't care for the floral dresses, what's going on in the background is more interesting also the beginning looks are very appealing to me. Givenchy: sometimes I fall totally head over heels for it other times I'm just ehh about it. Kinda eehh about this, but the leopard dress is interesting.

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  2. McQueen was great, love the vision and the hair is great. Great show (:

    Puck
    http://oneofpoints.blogspot.com

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